Henry dreyfus



Patented May 19, 1925.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HENRY DREYFU S, OF LONDON, ENGLAND.

MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS.

No Drawing.

lose all of which are hereinafter included in the term organic derivatives of cellulose, and its obJect is to produce fabrics of tlns character presenting new or improved crepelike effects.

As is well known, permanent crepe effects on fabrics made with yarns of natural silk, are obtained by employing highly twisted silk yarns in the gummed state in weaving the fabric, and subsequently boiling ofl" wholly or partly the silk gum, which usually constitutes about 20-25 per cent of the weight of the silk fibre. and drying, the crepe effect being thus obtained. Usually it is only weft yarns which are highly twisted, but in some cases both weft and warp yarns having a high twist are employed. In most cases "one employs both right hand twisted yarns and left'hand twisted yarns in the fabric in order toobtain a flat lying fabric; for exampleright hand twisted weft yarns may alternate with left hand twisted weft yarns in the fabric or be woven in other desired relation thereto.

Hitherto it has not been possible to obtain permanent crepe effects in fabrics with yarns or threads of cellulose acetate or other esters or ethers of cellulose. Trials made with this object have failed. It has been found that the reason for the inapplicability is that the said yarns or threads, especially cellulose acetate, yarns or threads owing to their being somewhat ductile, lose part of their elasticity under the effect of the high twist which is put into them 'foruse as crepe efl'ect threads, and do not regain their elasticity completely, a permanent stretch being in fact imparted to themunder the strain of the high twist so thatthey are 'not capable of the necessary degree of dressing of a colloid substance.

Application filed August 13, 1923. Serial No. 657,222.

with a protective coating of a colloid substance before they receive the high or relatively high twist; it has been found that by this means the elasticity of said yarns can be preserved or substantially preserved under the strain of the high twist, thus counteracting their tendency to acquire a permanent stretch on elongation in the twistmg operation. The yarns thus protected, after receiving the necessary high or relatively high twist (hereinafter for brevity included in the term high twist) are employed as weft yarns, or it may be in both warp and weft, in weaving the fabrics, and when the fabrics aresubsequently 'wetted and dried, the said yarnsproduce a permanent crepe effect by their shrinkage. The elasticity preserving coating is wholly or partly removed from said yarns in the woven fabric by any suitable bath or liquid, and the operation of removing said coating may with advantage at the same time serve as the creping wetting.

I Trials have shown that a permanent crepe effect can only be satisfactorily obtained in fabrics with yarns of cellulose acetate or other esters or ethers' of cellulose if these yarns are provided with an elasticity pre-.

serving coating as referred to before re-- celvmg the'necessary high twist. TlllS is a surprising fact, asother yarns such as wool and cotton will give permanent crepe effects without special protection.

In carrying out the invention I employ high twist yarn of cellulose acetate or other ester or ether of cellulose, which yarn, be-

fore receiving the high or relatively high twist, has been treated or impregnated with an elasticity preserving coating or The .said coating or dressing .may consist of any suitable colloidal materials or preparations. For example one may treat or 1mpregnate the said, yarns or threads with boiled-off liquor or with solutions or preparations .containinggums, gelatine, starch, glucose, so called sizes or sizing preparations, especially those consisting of or capable of leaving on the yarns a dressing or coating-of a plastic or semiplastic character consisting for example of starch, glucose and oil, or with mixtures of or containing any of the foregoing, or with any other suitable dressings or preparations. I, weave fabrics with weft yarns of such coated or-dressed highly or relatively highly twisted yarns and I afterwards remove the coating or dressing wholly or partly from the said yarns by treating the fabric with boiling or hot water or soap that any known or sijiiitable baths or wetting means may be employed for the purpose 'or any other su-itable' nreans may ,be. applied for effecting the crping shrinkage.

The weft may consist wholly of the highly or relatively highly twisted and coated or dressed yarns of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose, or partly of such yarns and partly of yarns of other material. The warp may consist of yarns of celluloseacetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose, or of yarns of other material or materials, or partly of yarns of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose and partly of yarns of other material or materials. The warp yarns will usually be of relatively low twist or much lower twist than the crepe efi'ect weft yarns, but in some cases highly twisted or relatively highly t'wistedwarp yarns may be employed. When warp yarns of cellulose acetate or other esters or ethers of cellulose are employed these may likewise be provided with a coatingor dressing such as referred to.

The high or relatively highly twisted coated weft yarns of cellulose acetate or other organic-derivatives of cellulose may of course be employed throughout the fabric or only at desired parts thereof according to whether the crepe effect to beobtained with them shall extend generally over the fabric or only appear at parts. The weaving may in fact be generally similar to that practised in making fabrics with permanent crepe effects, and the crpe-efi'ect-producin'g yarns may be of opposite twists as before referred to in order to secure a flat lying fabric.

The degree of twist imparted to the yarns of cellulose acetate or ,otherorganic derivatives of cellulose serving to give the crepe effect may be similar, to-what is usual in weft yarns in the manufacture of silk crepe, crepe de chine, crepe marocain or other crpes by the known methods, but any other suitable high or relatively high twist may be employ The ,crp'e effect may be more or less'pro- It is understood, however, that ,;a-

nounced or of any desired degree, according to the number of twists given to the yarnsand to the degree of shrinkage. Also any desired deniers of yarns may be used, as for instance 30, 45, 50, 60,100, 150, 200 and more. High deniers may in particular be used with preference for fabrics such as crepe marocain. It is also to be understood that the deniers employed may consist of a single end or be built up of two or more ends to make the total denier. In the latter case the ends may be separately coated or dressed before being twisted together or before receiving the high or relatively high twist.

The yarns of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose employed for the purposes of the invention will usually be composed of continuous filaments,

though in some cases they may be spun from short length or chappe cellulose acetate fibres. 1

It is to be understood as before indicated that two or more ends of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose may be twisted together with a high or. relatively high twist for use as crepe producing weft yarns.

, In carrying out the invention, according to one example, to make a crepe fabric of 45 denier for instance, I may take a 45 denier yarn of cellulose acetate, ethyl, methyl, benzyl cellulose or other ester or other of cellulose and treat or impre nate it withboiled off liquor or other suitab e sizing, dressing or preparation of a suitable concentration so as to apply or leave on the yarn the desired amount of .coating or solid material, for instance an amount about corresponding to that of the gum on natural silk, for example about 20-25 per cent, or any desired lessor greater amount, for instance between 5 and 20 per cent or 2530 per cent or more, or even as low as between about 1 and 5 per cent. The yarn, dried if required, is given" a suitably high twist, for instance-a twist of between 44 and 86 turns per inch, or more or less than this, and is woven as weft into a fabric with warp yarns of cellulose acetate or other cellulose ester or cellulose ether or;

other material, of the same'denier as the weft threads, but of an ordinary degree of twist or of lower twist than said weft, for example of about 5 turns per inch. The warp yarn employed may or may not be coated or dressed similarly to'the weft. The

-woven fabric isthen boiled or heated with water or in a soap bath or treated with any other suitable bath to remove the coating or dressing fromthe yarns and is dried under tension, and a fabricvis thus obtained pre-- senting the permanent crepe effect.

It/ is of course understood that thea foregoing example is g'iven only by way of illustration and can be variedwidely.

One may of course employ in the fabric yarns consisting respectively of different esters or others of cellulose, or yarns or threads consisting respectively of ester and ether of cellulose, for example yarns of cellu lose acetate and yarns of another ester of cellulose, or yarns of cellulose acetate and yarns of cellulose ether. Or yarns may be employed which are composed or built up of two or more'bf any of the said cellulose derivatives. j

It is understood that the number of weftyarns employed in carrying out the invention should not be too great relatively to the number of warp creping effect obtained afterthe shrinkage than these may be employed.

may be prejudiced. For this reason the number of weft yarns per inch counted lengthwise of the fabric shouldbe substan 'tially less than the number of'warp yarns per inch counted transversely of the fabric. For instance with a fabric of 180 warp yarns per inch one may use about 40 to 80 weft yarns per inch, it being of course understood that any other suitable numbers In some cases the fabrics produced according to the-invention may be treated. with a swelling agent or agents for the yarns of cellulose acetate or other cellulose esters or ethers, it having been found that such treatment with a swelling agent can accentuate or increase the crping effect on the highly twisted yarnsof organic derivatives of cellulose. For example one may treat the fabric in a bath of dilute acetic acid, or at bath containing a thiocyanate such as thlocyanate of ammonium or thiocyanate of sodlum or other alkali thiocyange; or any other suitable swelling agents may be employed for the purpose, the fabric being afterwards dried preferably under tension. The swelling-treatment may be applied after the removal ofthe coating or dressing from the cellulose acetate yarns, or before such removal, or it may itself serve at the same time as means for removing the coating or dressing. a

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is r I 1. Process forthe production of yarns for use in the manufacture of crpe fabrics, comprising applying an elasticity preservingcoating yarn com d of organic derivative of co ulose, an twisting said coated yarn with a high 1 2. Process for. the production of yarns for use in the manufacture of crepe fabrics comprising applying an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance to yarn com posed of organic derivative of cellulose, and

twisting said sized yarn with a high twist.-

3. In a process for the manufacture of crepe efl'ect fabrics, the employment of high twist weft yarns of organic derivative of arns, as otherwise the cellulose having an elasticity preserving coating applied to them prior to receiving the high twist.

4. In a. process for the manufactureof crepe efi'ect fabrics, the employment of high twist weft yarns of cellulose acetate having an elasticity preserving coating, applied to them prior to receiving the high' twist.

.5. In a process for the manufacture of crepe efl'ect fabrics, the employment of high twist'weft yarns of cellulose acetate having an elasticity preserving colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the'high wist.

6. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent'crpe efi'ect. Weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of organic derivative of cellulose having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving. the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least partially from" said yarns in the woven fabric. i

In a process for the'manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric comprising high twist weft yarns of organic cellulose derivative having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid-substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least partially from said yarns in the woven fabric by treatment of the'fabricwith a liquid capable of dissolving off the coating. i

8. In a process for the manufacture of presenting a permanent crepe effect,

fabric weaving a fabric .with high twist weft yarns of organic cellulose derivative having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least partially from said yarns in the woven fabricby treatment ofthe fabric with a hot aqueous liquid.'

9. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting-a. permanent crepe effect,

weaving a fabric, with high twist weft yarns of organic cellulose derivative having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subjecting the woven fabric to wetting and drying.

10. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe efl'ect,

weaving a fabric with high twist :weft yarns of organic derivative of cellulose having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the v coating at least part ally from said yarns in the woven farbric by treatment of the fabric. with an aqueous liquid, said treatment likewise serving as wetting treatment for the crping, and drying the fabric.

11. In a process for the manufacture of I fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect,

weaving afabric with high twist weft' yarns of cellulose acetate having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least-partially fromsaid yarns in the woven fabric by treatment of the fabric with a liquid capable of dissolving off the coating;

13111 a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect,

weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of cellulose acetate having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least partially from said high twist cellulose acetate yarns in the woven fabric by treatment with a hot aqueous liquid, and drying the fabric.

14. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of cellulose acetate having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subjecting the woven fabric to wetting and drying.

15. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of cellulose acetate having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and subsequently removing the coating at least partially from said yarns in the woven fabric by treatment of the fabric with an aqueous liquid, said treatment likewise serving as wetting treatment for the crping, and drying the fabric.

16. In a process for the. manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of cellulose acetate having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, treating the woven fabric with a hot aqueous liquid whereby said coating is at least partially removed from said coated high twist cellulose acetate yarns, said treatment like wise serving as wetting treatment for the crping, and drying the fabric. I

17. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of organic derivative of cellulose having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, and treating the fabric with a solution of a chemical swelling agent for said yarns of organic cellulose derivative.

18. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe effect, weaving a fabric witlrhigh twist weft yarns of organic derivative of cellulose having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied ,to them prior to receiving the high twist, treating the fabric witha solutionof a chemical swelling agent for said yarns of organic cellulose derivative and removing said protective coating at least partially from said yarns.

19. In a process for the manufacture of fabric presenting a permanent crepe efiect,

weaving a fabric with high twist weft yarns of organic derivative of cellulose having an elasticity preserving coating of colloid substance applied to them prior to receiving the high twist, treating the fabric with an aqueous solution of a chemical swelling agent for said yarns of organic cellulose derivative. thereby removing the coating at least partially from said yarns and swelling them, and thereafter drying the fabric.

20. As new products applicable for the manufacture of crepe fabrics, high twist yarns of organic derivative of cellulose, said yarns comprising a coating of colloid substance whereby elasticity of said yarns is preserved under the high twist.

21.. As new products, woven fabrics. comprising high 'twist weft yarns of organic derivative of cellulose and presenting a permanent crepe effect.

22. As new products, woven fabrics comprising high twist weft yarns of cellulose acetate and presenting a permanent crepe effect.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name.

HENRY DREYFUS. 

